The little house fronts onto a back lane that runs above and parallel to the town's main street. We were just a minute away from shops, bars and restaurants, yet the house was quiet, with the strigilation of cicadas only broken by the shouts of watermelon sellers, the regular chime of the church clock at the end of the street, and the occasional conversation of neighbours drifting over the garden walls.

The house is small but characterful, with plenty of room for four adults. It's not long been renovated, and everything worked, and the only thing we lacked at the outset was a toaster. We didn't sit inside much, but the living room is big and comfortable, with an efficient ceiling fan. We didn't turn on the TV! Our bedroom, - we chose the front one - has a view of the sea if you open the shutters, stand on the bed and crane your neck. There are mosquitoes - beware - and noisy air conditioning.

The garden is an informal jumble of levels and (recently established) plants. There is a shaded seating area, and tomatoes ripen amongst the shrubs and flowers. Grasshoppers, crickets and the ever-present cicadas sit in the bushes and make insect music. It was great to relax in, and it'll be wonderful when the plants mature.

The sea is a ten minute walk away.

Methoni is dominated by a huge Venetian castle, and consists of a single main street, a couple of minor roads and several narrow streets that hug the slopes to the west. Most of the older buildings are away from the sea, and have rusty balconies, sun-faded shutters and unruly potted plants. Skinny cats slink across unused spaces. Edging the sea are some unpretentious modern buildings and an open square, lined with restaurants. One of these offered a free wireless connection, so we often sat here in the late evenings, people-watching, checking email, nibbling peanuts and Ralph sipping beer and lusting after the charming Swiss waitress. There's a central square further into the village, and there were a couple of live performances here whilst we were in Methoni.

The people were friendly. Outside the tavernas the old men stopped speaking to stare hard at you over their empty coffee cups, before returning to their conversations. There are children everywhere, and they play happily amongst the beer-sipping adults well into the late evening. Ralph even managed to get the Guardian every day!

The beach was quiet, considering it was July, and it was easy to get away from whatever crowded patches there were. The water, however, could only be described as bearable and was certainly not warm. Although you are in essence swimming in a harbour, and there are yachts and fishing boats of all sizes dotted about at anchor, the water was clean and clear. We ate in three restaurants, and enjoyed all our meals. Food shopping, even for we vegans, was fine, and the Methoni supermarket even had soy milk in stock!

Ralph was desperate to go for a hike, and managed one, though the local map, really a sketch, let him down. He missed several of the area's historical sites, but of course that means he'll have more to explore next time!

All in all the town was ideal for our sort of vacation. It has character and interest, both historical and contemporary. We were certainly never bored. The beach was a fair distance away, the house and garden wouldn't suit someone unable to hop up and down steep steps, and you have to do a fair bit of driving to reach the other attractions of the Peloponnese, but we were, in the end, very happy.